Amazon Taboca Lodge

Amazon Taboca Lodge is a stilt-built sport-fishing lodge deep along the Juma River, in Autazes, Amazonas. The operation is almost entirely devoted to peacock bass: it sits at the mouth of one of the region's most fish-rich creeks, about three and a half hours from Manaus via a relay of speedboat, van and aluminum skiff that begins at the Meeting of the Waters.

The target is the speckled peacock bass (Cichla temensis), the largest of the genus, caught both in its açu phase and its paca phase. Strikes come in blackwater creeks and flooded-forest stretches, where trophy fish run past ten kilos. Fishing is catch-and-release, artificial lures only. Each boat is rigged for fishing, with an electric trolling motor, a daily fuel tank and a native pilot who knows the spots and adapts to each angler's level.

The lodge is rustic but air-conditioned throughout: the wooden cabins have AC and a private bathroom, and even the dining hall is climate-controlled. A thatched-roof maloca with screened walls holds the lounge, the bar and the common area, with decks facing the river. Capacity is fourteen guests, which keeps the house small and the service personal.

The package is all-inclusive out of Manaus. It covers the round-trip airport-to-lodge transfer, three daily meals of regional Amazon cooking featuring Juma River fish such as jaraqui, and two barbecues on the itinerary, one on the riverbank during fishing and one back at the lodge on the final night. Drinks are included: soft drinks and beer (Heineken, Amstel, Corona); spirits are available separately at the bar. A small shop offers caps, lures and regional crafts.

The river sets the calendar: the flood peaks around June and the level then drops more than ten meters into the dry season, bottoming out between October and November. The operation runs from September to January, during the lowest-water period, when the river recedes, exposes beaches and concentrates peacock bass on the fishing spots. Access is via Manaus, the air gateway for the trip.